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On the deadly road from Mykolaiv to Nikopol, scenes of Russia’s brutal war

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An ambulance passes destroyed Russian armored personnel carriers on the street in Dudchany, Ukraine, on Jan. 14. (Wojciech Grzedzinski for The Washington Publish)


ALONG THE SOUTHERN DNIEPER RIVER, Ukraine — Solely the water retains them aside.

Russian troopers — pushed into retreat by a counteroffensive late final 12 months — management the east financial institution of the mighty Dnieper River. Ukrainians management the west.

As Ukraine awaits new tanks from the USA and Europe, and preventing rages over strategic cities within the east, a battle of attrition is underway on this southern battleground. The river limits territorial advances, allowing — for now at the very least — solely destruction from a distance.

On the route touring east and north from villages on the Gulf of the Dnieper to the battered however never-occupied metropolis of Nikopol, the width of the river ranges from a number of miles to fewer than 1,000 ft, placing the Russians shut sufficient to strike with mortars and shells or sniper fireplace. They hit some villages dozens of instances a day. Ukrainian forces are firing again.

Earlier than the battle, the journey would have amounted to about 150 miles — and brought a couple of hours to drive. However with broken roads and bridges over the river’s inlets, the journey by means of former Russian occupied territory has grow to be troublesome. Roads are nonetheless suffering from deserted Russian checkpoints and army tools. Russian trenches and firing positions are dug into farmers’ fields. Indicators warn of mines. At village entrances, Ukrainian troops warn the probabilities of being shelled are excessive.

Washington Publish journalists spent a number of days touring alongside the Ukrainian-controlled foremost and again roads that join these cities and villages to see how civilians are surviving winter, regularly with out fuel or electrical energy. Usually solely the aged are left, surviving with out warmth on meals handouts. Residents concern they may very well be killed at any second, and nonetheless whisper of collaborators dwelling amongst them.

Lots of the villages right here withstood months of Russian occupation, and are in territory President Vladimir Putin claims, illegally, to have annexed. The Kremlin now insists they have to be “liberated” — signaling Moscow’s resolve to return, probably in new offensives this spring.

The broken street into this lately liberated village is a harbinger for what lies past. Burned-out automobiles and carcasses of a cow and canine are scattered on the aspect of the street. Troopers shouted frantically to remain on laborious floor — the marsh under nonetheless hasn’t been demined.

Earlier than the battle, 2,123 individuals lived on this peaceable enclave on the Gulf of the Dnieper. However preventing grew so fierce right here that by final spring, solely 16 residents remained. Russian forces controlling the city evacuated most others to villages deeper inside Russian-occupied territory.

As soon as Ukraine retook the village late final 12 months, civilians began to return and assess the injury. However most discovered there’s little left. Greater than two months after liberation, solely 150 individuals now reside within the wreckage.

“If there was a hell, it was right here,” stated village chief Natalya Kamenetska, 36. Some residents have been executed. 4 are nonetheless lacking. Exhumations are nonetheless underway, however the village stays so closely mined that the method is gradual.

Residents who want repairs to their houses should go to Kamenetska’s workplace on the village council to fill out questionnaires and register for help. Many are impatient.

In a broken kindergarten close by, Yaroslava Kusherenko, 81, was attempting to tug a big, soiled rug out of a brightly painted classroom. Kusherenko spent seven months within the close by village of Bilozerka after Russian forces moved her there throughout heavy preventing. “I spent the primary three months crying,” she stated.

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When she returned dwelling after liberation, all that remained of her home was her kitchen. Her cows had been slaughtered and he or she and her son now reside off humanitarian help. Her range nonetheless works, which has saved them from freezing. However she wanted the carpet, she stated, to heat up her makeshift mattress.

She apprehensive she can be punished for taking it, though it wasn’t getting used. However she was so chilly, she stated, she didn’t know what else to do.

“We had such a ravishing village. Folks have been so joyful. There was a lot inexperienced. And see what has occurred to it now,” she stated, gesturing to the bombed-out kindergarten behind her. “In a single second, I misplaced every part. Who will return it to me?”

Within the three months since Ukrainian forces liberated Tiahynka, Helena Horobets, 72, has ready rigorously for the likelihood that day by day Russian shelling from throughout the river may destroy her dwelling.

She and her son wrapped their valuables in plastic — together with the gown she desires to put on to her personal funeral, ought to she be killed — and moved themselves and their belongings to their cramped basement the place they now spend most of their time.

With no energy, Horobets’s connection to the surface world has been restricted to utilizing a neighbor’s generator to sometimes watch TV. However information of what’s taking place elsewhere in Ukraine, she stated by means of tears, simply “makes me unhappy.”

On a current morning, she got here upstairs, opened her blue gate and handed her neighbor a small wad of money. In return, Alla Kravtsova, 55, handed a uncooked hen in a crimson plastic bag. It might maintain Horobets for a couple of week.

At her dwelling down the road, Kravtsova’s chickens, geese and turkeys squawked as she opened her barn door, revealing 4 cows. The youngest, Borka, is simply two weeks previous.

Promoting poultry and dairy has helped Kravtsova survive. However her duty to the animals, she stated, has additionally trapped her right here. Simply earlier than Ukraine retook her village, Kravtsova’s daughter and granddaughter fled. The 5-year-old was so traumatized by the battle that she developed a stutter and shaky palms.

They’re now protected in Lithuania whereas Kravtsova sleeps most nights in her cellar the place she shops jars of preserves made throughout occupation. “My daughter requested me to forgive her for leaving me alone,” she stated. “I instructed her ‘Save the kid.’”

She stepped down a rickety ladder to her basement to rummage by means of her provide and emerged weeping — the dusty jars full of pickled crimson peppers, strawberries and squash a reminder of the darkest days of Russian management. “I used to be afraid my youngsters and grandchildren would die of starvation,” she stated.

In her kitchen, Kravtsova flicked on a small lamp powered by a automotive battery and recounted how she thought Ukraine’s advances meant her household would have the ability to return. However the Russians barely retreated. “We have been ready for autumn to place an finish to it,” she stated. “Now we’re ready for spring.”

Quickly after Ukrainian forces pushed Russians out of this village in November, Natasha and Anton Dyadchenko adopted new guidelines: 1. Keep away from leaving dwelling in any respect prices 2. In the event you should go exterior, run as quick as you’ll be able to. 3. All the time keep between homes for canopy.

That they had watched with concern that month because the retreating Russians arrange a pontoon bridge and crossed from their riverbank to the opposite aspect. The following day, their three youngsters, ages 9, 13 and 14, have been enjoying exterior when Ukrainian troops arrived.

Civilians fell to their knees in thanks. A large Ukrainian flag was unfold throughout the primary road.

However inside days, Russian assaults from throughout the river started. Folks fled. “The shelling began to get loud and the children have been very scared,” Natasha stated, in order that they made the choice to ship them to their grandmother’s home in central Ukraine.

Now their road is quiet, save for barking canine whose households fled. On their restricted ventures exterior, the Dyadchenkos see few individuals. They haven’t left as a result of Natasha’s aged mom desires to remain.

For now, they’re surviving off the animals they raised, together with her mom’s seven cows, 10 chickens and 20 geese. The livestock helped maintain them afloat throughout occupation. Every week, they braved the street to promote meat available in the market in Kherson.

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However their provides gained’t final endlessly. When requested what number of pigs have been left, Natasha gestured on the one they’d slaughtered that morning, which they’d butcher of their kitchen. “None now,” she replied.

After a couple of hours with out explosions, a handful of civilians right here felt protected sufficient to step exterior for some recent air. The final blast had been that morning. Now it was afternoon.

“Thank God at this time has been quiet to date,” stated Yuriy Boronko, 69, as he walked by pushing his bike. It was a time without work for the humanitarian help station the place residents normally accumulate meals.

A younger couple walked by with their canine. They’re surviving, they stated, on bread and beans. There was no electrical energy, fuel or water for the reason that retreating Russians bombed the infrastructure. Steady shelling has made repairs unattainable.

“The ‘liberators’ on the opposite aspect of the river are shelling us,” stated Valeriy Kulyush, 57. “We simply should persevere.”

This village has been shelled a lot currently that Lyuba Voznyak, 66, not is aware of the place to cover. On a current afternoon, she sat exterior her crimson gate riddled with bullet holes, shivering on a rickety bench. Her road was abandoned.

“I’m afraid to sit down in my home as a result of I’m afraid it’ll collapse on me,” she stated. However “it’s even too scary to sit down in my backyard. How do you count on me to not shake?” The one ones left, she stated, are “pensioners with nowhere to go.”

Simply two days earlier, a home across the nook was hit by a Russian strike from throughout the river. The individuals had already left, Voznyak stated, however their animals — together with canine and chickens — have been nonetheless exterior.

Voznyak’s youngsters have begged her to evacuate. However after surviving occupation, she doesn’t need to flee. “I would like to observe over my backyard,” she stated.

Then, one other increase, as a mortar landed close by.

The strike Voznyak and Perepada heard from Dudchany hit a storage housing farm machines down the street within the village of Havrylivka. Nobody was killed or wounded. A hearth blazed within the yard. Plumes of smoke rose into the sky. A canine walked by. A bunch of males, accustomed to shelling, stood exterior joking concerning the strike simply minutes after the blast. None of them, they stated, had anyplace else to go.


On a current day, volunteers from close by Zolota Balka got here to Novovorontsovka to select up provides, together with bread. Their village had been hit 60 instances the day earlier than, they stated.

Novovorontsovka hasn’t been shelled as frequently and has grow to be a haven for storing humanitarian help. Locals are beginning to substitute their damaged home windows, with glass bought by means of a grant from the European Union.

One other 4 miles north, in riverside Maryanske, Viacheslav Borysenko has bought fish at a marketplace for 22 years. Now, with a lot of this stretch of river too harmful for boats, the fish he sells come from upstream. To reside on the river and import fish “feels bizarre, however what can we do?” he stated. “We’ve to adapt.”

Lyudmila Kruhlenko, 53, had simply set out snacks on New Yr’s Eve when a blast hit her constructing, badly damaging her balcony and destroying a part of a neighbor’s house. Nonetheless, she didn’t think about leaving.

“The temper is to remain till victory,” Kruhlenko stated. “The individuals left listed here are very robust.”

Mayor Oleksandr Sayuk, 49, stated greater than half the town’s 106,000 individuals have fled — together with his spouse and youngsters. The town, perched on a large part of the river, is protected by the water. Russian forces “don’t have the likelihood to simply get to the town,” Sayuk stated. “The unfavourable aspect,” he added, is the Russians are nonetheless inside vary. “They shell every time they please.”

Wojciech Grzedzinski contributed to this report.

Supply: www.washingtonpost.com

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