It was quiet within the car parking zone of the Cantonese restaurant. By then, the information helicopters had left Monterey Park airspace.

Lina Situ wore a purple mandarin-collar jacket and stood in entrance of a makeshift altar, bowing her head in reflection. She was joined by her colleagues outdoors the restaurant she co-owns, Style of MP.

Earlier than her, a spherical desk draped in a pink fabric was laden with choices to Tsai Shen, the god of wealth in Chinese language folks faith.

Boiled rooster. Fried rice. Taro muffins. Tea. Wine. Oranges. Sweets.

Situ approached the desk and plunged lighted sticks of incense right into a steel bowl crammed with dry rice. Then a smile bloomed on her face. She was about to participate in a Lunar New Yr custom: the bestowing of pink envelopes crammed with money.

“I simply pray the whole lot is wholesome, good enterprise, cash come, cash come!” Situ mentioned, her enthusiasm like a sort of armor in opposition to the unhappiness enveloping town. She pressed the pink packets into the arms of servers, cooks and different buoyant staff.

It was Monday afternoon, lower than 48 hours after a gunman fatally shot 11 people and injured 9 others on Saturday evening, Lunar New Yr’s Eve. The violence occurred at Star Ballroom Dance Studio, only a few blocks down West Garvey Avenue from the place Situ stood.

Although she grieved for these killed, Situ by no means thought of delaying the standard Lunar New Yr customs — particularly the giving of pink envelopes. The ritual was too vital. Too ingrained.

“You don’t want to offer some huge cash — it’s a gesture, to offer luck,” she defined.

After a mass capturing, there’s at all times the stress of learn how to honor the lifeless and keep in mind what transpired, whereas additionally transferring ahead. It’s the carrying on with life — that lurching seek for one thing near normalcy — that may appear so fraught.

The rituals that maintain us within the aftermath of tragedy could be sacred. Or typically routine. Calamities have struck at Thanksgiving and Christmas, however individuals nonetheless tucked into turkey or opened presents. And in Monterey Park, the custom of pink envelopes continued, although some proprietors had wrestled with whether or not at hand them out as scheduled.

Roger Yeh, proprietor of MoMo Bakery, additionally on Garvey, questioned if he may wait till Monday to distribute envelopes to his staff. Yeh’s bakery, which is throughout the road and some storefronts down from the dance studio, was behind police warning tape.

Yeh and his spouse dwell in Palos Verdes, and he or she urged him to not go to Monterey Park.

Roger Yeh, proprietor of MoMo Bakery in Monterey Park, introduced his staff pink envelopes on Sunday.

(Dania Maxwell / Los Angeles Occasions)

“I mentioned, ‘No, immediately is the day to indicate that the boss is right here, to indicate assist,’” Yeh mentioned. He went to the bakery on Sunday.

Others, like Situ, felt there was no debating it — they had to distribute the pink packets.

Michelle King, an affiliate professor of historical past on the College of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, isn’t stunned.

“There’s a perception that the stuff you do to usher within the new 12 months will stick with you for the remainder of the 12 months,” mentioned King, who focuses on fashionable Chinese language historical past, with a specialty in meals historical past. “The urgency, if it was felt, to offer out the pink packets, establishes a sample for the entire 12 months. You probably have a foul entry to the brand new 12 months, there’s a perception it can coloration the remainder of the 12 months.”

That, she mentioned, is “what makes this tragedy so terrible.”

::

Till authorities introduced the 72-year-old gunman had killed himself in Torrance, these early, uneasy hours on Sunday led others in addition to Yeh to rethink their Lunar New Yr plans.

Xiang Chen, whose household owns Spicy Duck Wang La Ya, one other eatery on Garvey, mentioned that on Sunday she hadn’t needed to return to the restaurant, the place she works as a server. However she felt obligated to take action — partly as a result of she had deliberate to ship a pink envelope to the restaurant’s chef. “We do it yearly,” she mentioned.

David R. Chan, a homespun meals historian who has eaten at thousands of Chinese restaurants because the Fifties, fielded considerations from his spouse over a deliberate Lunar New Yr lunch with their brood in neighboring Alhambra.

“My spouse was very apprehensive about having” the meal, mentioned Chan.

However the household stored its reservation — Chan offered his kids and grandkids with pink envelopes — and as of Tuesday, he had sampled 7,995 Chinese language eateries throughout the nation.

Chan mentioned 406 of these institutions have been in Monterey Park, a metropolis as soon as dubbed the country’s first suburban Chinatown. Positioned lower than 10 miles from downtown L.A., Monterey Park has lengthy attracted Asian American residents who’ve flocked to the suburb for its relative security and faculties, together with Situ.

Lina Situ, co-owner of Style of MP, solutions the Monterey Park eatery’s cellphone on Tuesday.

(Dania Maxwell / Los Angeles Occasions)

She was 16 when she arrived within the U.S. from Kaiping, China, in 1990. She spoke little English, however she knew this: “I preferred America.” Situ, 48, settled in downtown L.A.’s Chinatown, the place she acquired a job at a restaurant. Quickly, work within the trade — she had stints as a cook dinner, server, you identify it — led her to Monterey Park. She purchased a house there in 1997.

“It’s a really secure metropolis, a really good metropolis,” she mentioned.

Alongside the best way, she married and had a daughter, a nurse who’s now 26. Of this, Situ famous: “Time went quick.”

She started working on the property that now homes Style of MP in 2005. Again then, it had been one other restaurant. After which one other. When a seafood eatery there closed down, she and a companion purchased the place and opened Style of MP two years in the past.

Prospects eat lunch at Style of MP in Monterey Park on Tuesday.

(Dania Maxwell / Los Angeles Occasions)

There are perks to being the boss.

Situ mentioned that she relishes presenting her clients’ kids with pink envelopes on Lunar New Yr.

“It doesn’t matter if it’s only some {dollars},” she mentioned. “It’s not the cash — it’s what’s in your coronary heart. They’re glad. After which you might be glad too.”

It additionally goes the opposite approach: Prospects typically deliver pink envelopes for her workers.

“They’re at all times considering of you,” Situ mentioned of her patrons. “It retains you fortunate.”

Situ mentioned this Monday afternoon whereas having fun with a respite earlier than the restaurant’s dinner shift. Then, as if on cue, server Raymond Zhang walked up holding a stack of pink envelopes. He displayed eight pink packets however famous that he’d acquired greater than 100 from clients over the vacation interval.

“We’re fortunate, no?” Situ requested — besides it wasn’t actually a query.

::

By Tuesday, the lunchtime crowd at Style of MP was boisterous. Many of the tables had been crammed by midday, and the din grew steadily. Overseeing all of it had been the plump inhabitants of eight massive fish tanks embedded in a wall of inexperienced stone tiles.

The Dungeness crabs, Boston lobsters, turbot and different future meals signaled Style of MP’s seafood credentials.

The crowded room was a welcome sight for Situ, who defined that Style of MP had been absolutely booked for lunch on Sunday. That’s, till a wave of cancellations. “At first, they had been scared,” she mentioned.

Style of MP co-owner Lina Situ, proper, distributes pink envelopes to diners on Tuesday.

(Dania Maxwell / Los Angeles Occasions)

In one of many personal rooms, restaurant guide William Lee sat at a big spherical desk with a number of different members of a daily eating group that meets on the eatery every week. The home windows regarded out on Garvey. In the event you craned your neck and squinted, you might make out the entrance of the constructing that housed Star Ballroom Dance Studio.

As he and his companions tucked into bowls of steaming lamb stew, Lee recalled that he had been one among Situ’s earliest employers, hiring her away from her first stateside gig on the restaurant in Chinatown. She’d solely begun working there a number of months earlier.

Within the early Nineties, Situ was the one feminine server amongst about 30 males on the job at Lee’s restaurant, NBC Seafood of Monterey Park. Situ’s prodigious effort, Lee mentioned, opened his eyes to the talents of ladies working in eating places.

“Chinese language meals could be very laborious work,” he mentioned.

That job additionally helped Situ put down roots in the neighborhood. Now, Style of MP was serving to her make a reputation for herself. Coincidentally, a narrative published by The Times on Sunday morning spotlighted the restaurant’s complete steamed fish with ginger and scallions as a super Lunar New Yr dish.

Waiter Tony Hung receives a pink envelope from a buyer earlier than taking their order at Style of MP restaurant in Monterery Park on Tuesday.

(Dania Maxwell / Los Angeles Occasions)

“The fish right here is steamed completely, each time,” the article mentioned.

Days later, although, Situ hadn’t discovered the time to trace down the story and browse it.

She was too busy. She welcomed diners with a well-known smile, punctuating greetings with an enormous chuckle that was laced with a rasp. She barked directions to her workers and boxed up leftovers, typically concurrently. She answered the phone — the landline, her cell — with a figuring out greeting that will need to have put the callers comfy.

This was her place. Situ — like so many others in her neighborhood — had achieved the American dream. Now, that neighborhood was touched by a most American tragedy.

Situ had been inside Style of MP when the capturing unfolded. She noticed police vehicles and ambulances streak previous the restaurant towards the crime scene, not sure of what she was witnessing. Fearful associates quickly referred to as Situ to inform her what had occurred and urged her to go dwelling. A shooter was on the free.

“After all, I used to be scared,” Situ mentioned.

However her ideas turned to a pal she was afraid might need been on the venue. “I used to be calling her: ‘Are you on the dance corridor?’” Situ recalled. The lady hadn’t been there.

Regardless of the entreaties to move dwelling, Situ didn’t wrap up at Style of MP till about 12:30 a.m. on Sunday.

“I nonetheless wanted to wash up the kitchen,” she mentioned.

It felt like an evidence that might resonate up and down Garvey Avenue.

As Tuesday’s lunch service stretched on, flashes of pink started showing throughout the restaurant. A diner had given Situ a stack of envelopes to distribute all through the room. Peals of pleasure appeared to erupt wherever a packet modified arms.

Server Tony Huang, left, receives a pink envelope from buyer Olivia Chang, proper, at Style of MP restaurant on Tuesday.

(Dania Maxwell / Los Angeles Occasions)

“It’s so comforting,” mentioned E.N. Anderson, a professor emeritus at UC Riverside with experience in Cantonese tradition. “You’ve gotten pink packets all of your life. It turns into a type of rituals that individuals fall again on when issues are tough. We don’t have too many rituals like that in normal Anglo tradition.”

Finally, Situ offered a pink envelope to this reporter, holding out the packet with two arms.

Then she checked her cellphone. There was a lot to do.

It was time to get again to work.